Discovering the Tanagro: among nature, history and traditions

Your journey starts at the source of the Tanagro, in the town of Cozzo del Demanio, 1336 m above sea level. At its origin, the river is a placid little stream, also known as the Calore. The first village you come across is Casalbuono, a little town full of old windmills and olive pressses, evidence of its rural past. The Casalbuono trail lets you discover the Tanagro slowly, in harmony with nature. The best way to explore is on foot, climbing the hillside dotted with little farmhouses, fountains and a drinking trough. Following the circular trail, you return to the starting point. If you're lucky and it's the right time of year, you might find some wild mushrooms and asparagus.

Back in the town, don't miss the opportunity to sample the local cuisine. Choose from migliatiedd, roasted lamb offal rolls or 'involtini', pizza d grandinj, a savoury country flatbread made from cornflour, sultanas and pork scratchings, minestra maritata, a soup made from pork belly and fresh pasta such as cavatielli, fusilli, matasse, lagane or n’filiinfant.

Off we go again from Casalbuono. Following the course of the river, you enter the basin known as the Vallo di Diano, 400 metres high and full of beautiful landscapes, villages and artistic wonders - a fitting entrance to the splendid Cilento, Vallo di Diano and Alburni National Park.

Follow the ancient route of the Roman road known as the Via Popilia, which takes you back in time. First up is Padula, where the Tanagro, in the shadow of the fabulous Certosa, is swelled by the waters of many different streams to become a river. Must-sees are the monastery and the Paleochristian Baptistery of San Giovanni in Fonte, one of the oldest in the western world.

Continuing north, you arrive at Sala Consilina, a little town with a rich spiritual legacy. You can visit the Sanctuaries of San Michele and Sito Alto and drop in at the museum, the Museo Antiquarium Comunale, where you'll find a varied assortment of archaeological finds. Between one village and another the river lends itself to canyoning and rafting.

The day ends at the dinner table, where you can sample the delicacies of Sala Consilina: try the canistreddi e nocchi, long interwoven strips of pasta dressed with ragout, pork or meat-free sauce and local Pecorino cheese. For dessert, there are deep-fried 'cavati', leavened pasta gnocchi, deep-fried and sprinkled with sugar.

From Sala Consilina, the next stop is Polla, on the left bank of the Tanagro: here the river flows under bridges dating back to the Roman era. Visit the railway, to admire the early 20th-century steam locomotive, and the Fountain of Our Lady of Loreto. Climbing back up again on the right-hand bank of the Tanagro, head for Pertosa, where you can stop for the night. First, however, we recommend dining on a local masterpiece: white artichoke, which is also excellent raw, with a few drops of oil.

Follow the path from Pertosa to a cleft in the rock: this is the entrance to the Pertosa-Auletta Caves. Navigate an underground water course and try your hand at speleo-rafting.

After this exciting experience, head to Auletta: visit the Museum of the Soil, to discover the secrets of the bowels of the earth, and refresh yourself with pizza chiena, a rustic dish stuffed with eggs, salami and pecorino cheese.

Leave the Tanagro behind you and from Auletta you come to Caggiano, a medieval village with an impressive castle. None are quite as evocative as the present-day ghost town of Romagnano al Monte, which you reach after a 16-kilometre hike.

Finally, Buccino, whose archaeological heritage ranges from the Neolithic to the late Roman era. Try the Praianese migliaccio, made with ziti and bucatini pasta, semolina, lard, eggs, mozzarella or fresh caciocavallo, caciotta or pecorino cheese, smoked sausage and a touch of cinnamon.

You have reached the last stage. From Buccino, follow the gentle bends of the Tanagro river to Palomonte, a picturesque village whose caves have been inhabited since prehistoric times. Continue to Contursi Terme and enjoy the beneficial properties of its spring waters.

Here your journey ends and so does the Tanagro, which flows into the Sele and reaches the sea.