The Karst: land of caves and vineyards
Let's start on the Julian side with the DOC Carso, an area of red soil and limestone, straddling Trieste and Gorizia, where vine cultivation boasts more than two millennia of history. We are located within the Duino cliff nature reserve where the rock is caressed by the sea. It is precisely in this enchanting landscape characterised by dry stone walls that the vineyards of Malvasia Istriana, Terrano and Vitovska, a curious grape variety born from a cross between Malvasia and Glera, stretch out. We continue along the coast to Aquileia, an important centre of the Roman Empire recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for the importance of its archaeological area and enchanting mosaics. You cannot miss a stop in Trieste, with its historic cafés, the architecture of Unity of Italy Square from which there is a wonderful view of the gulf, and the romantic walks along the Canal Grande.
Gorizia and the emerald-green waters of the Soča river
We continue inland to the historic centre of Gorizia, dominated by the Baroque church of St Ignatius and, just outside the centre, the castle from the year 1000, the city's vantage point and home to numerous museums. Here, along the banks of the river Isonzo, expanses of indigenous and international vineyards alternate, and from this fusion of grapes and terroir, tradition and modernity, the Isonzo DOCwas born. In the white, Friulano, the undisputed king of the region's wines, meets Chardonnay and Pinot; in the red, Merlot, Cabernet and the historic Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso stand out, a grape variety that, with its intense notes of berries and violet hues, aroused interest as far back as the 14th century. Elegant, balanced wines that are the expression of this young territory, which like an open window welcomes the Adriatic breezes. Not to be missed are the paths through the vineyards and the magical atmosphere of the historic fortresses, such as Spessa Castle.
The border landscapes of the Collio
Our journey among the wine places of Friuli continues from Gorizia to the Slovenian border, discovering the fine wines of Collio DOC. This appellation, among the first in Italy, surprises with its full-bodied wines with character, more complex in the riserva version, to be appreciated even more after a few years. This Central European area, already appreciated for its oenological vocation in the 1960s, has 19 types of wine. The identity of Collio whites can be recognised in the perfect balance between softness and savouriness, and in the reds, delicate hints on the nose alternate with full-bodiedness on the palate. Not to be missed is an excursion to the vineyard hills of Oslavia, a land once scarred by the World War, where the perfect symbiosis between man and the environment gives rise to some of the world's most appreciated macerated wines.
Udine and the eastern hills
Between one tasting and another, we pass Gorizia to get to know another treasure of Friulian wines: the DOC Colli Orientali. Here, the vineyard terraces are nestled in a magnificent setting between the Julian Alps, lush forests and the shimmering Adriatic coastline. The wonderment from the eye also continues on the palate with the Friulano's savouriness and almondy tendency, which conquers with its unmistakable scents and extreme enjoyment even when aged in wood. In the red, the softness of Schioppettino dominates and a glass of Picolit DOCG Colli Orientali, with its enveloping honey and vanilla notes, is a must at the end of the meal. We continue towards Udine, strolling under the arcades of the historic centre to Piazza della Libertà, from where we can see the Clock Tower and Udine Castle, symbol of the city and an important museum centre.
Pordenone and the Upper Friulian Plain
Between Udine and Pordenone lies Grave, an alluvial territory, which takes its name from the large area of pebbles capable of retaining and releasing heat accumulated in the vineyards, thus increasing the temperature range and concentrating extreme aromaticity in the grapes. Spumante, Rosè or Riserva in the Friuli Grave DOC, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and other international grape varieties that are perfectly suited to this terroir become the protagonists, giving elegant and extremely fragrant wines. In the surrounding area, you cannot miss tasting San Daniele ham, known worldwide for its inimitable flavour, the result of a thousand-year-old tradition and the unique microclimate that characterises the village of the same name nestled in the hills.
To discover the wine cellars of Friuli Venezia Giulia, go to Wine Tourism Movement.