The Way of St. Benedict

Norcia, an ancient Sabine and then Roman city, preserves numerous artistic and historical testimonies related to the life of St. Benedict, who was born here in around 480.  The basilica seems to have been built on the remains of the saint's birthplace or, more likely, on the site of a Roman-era basilica. In any case, the original construction dates back to the 12th century. 

Visiting the evocative, historically rich places of this town means immersing yourself in a past that never ceases to communicate with the present. Not to be missed: the church of Santa Scolastica dating back to 580; the Cathedral of Santa Maria Argentea, built on a pre-existing pagan temple dedicated to the Goddess Fortuna Argentea; the Rocca della Castellina, and the Marcite, perennial meadows made irrigable by the Benedictines using constant temperature springs. 

Not far from the centre, you can also see the ruins of the church of the Madonna della Neve, built to designs by Bramante. 

The path winds through the fields and woods where the delicacies of a cuisine, composed of legumes, truffles, extra-virgin olive oil and many other genuine products, come to life.

17.9 km

Cascia is the city of Santa Rita. Its Rocca and the fourteenth-century Church of Sant'Agostino, built on a hermitage oratory, testify to its mediaeval past. Below the Rocca, you'll find the Basilica of Santa Rita, the heart of the city.

A visit to Roccaporena, a village not far from Cascia, and to the Sacred Rock where, according to tradition, Rita is said to have climbed up a steep path in order to pray and feel closer to God, is a must. The path, now much more accessible, reaches a small chapel built in 1919, which encloses the rock spur on which Rita used to pray.

Leaving Cascia, the path rises to a height, and the cultivated fields give way to lush forests and extensive pastures that lend a mountain flavour to the variety of cheeses that are still produced by hand. 

The village of Monteleone di Spoleto is located within the Coscerno-Aspra Natural Park. The village is, in fact, surrounded by a wild and rustic landscape. Visit the Church of San Francesco, which houses some very important works of art in its vaults: in addition to a wooden statue of Sant'Antonio Abate, a fresco from the early fifteenth century depicting the Madonna del Voto, the Baroque altar dedicated to San Felice. Taking its place in the museum is the jewel of Monteleone. It is a chariot, a parade chariot, produced by Etruscan workshops around 540 BC and which today is the most prestigious piece in the Etruscan collection of the Metropolitan Museum of New York. In Monteleone di Spoleto, you can see a life-size copy of the chariot made by the Giacomo Manzù foundry. 

On the way to Leonessa, we cross the border between Umbria and Lazio and are guided by Terminillo, which, with its beech trees, is a refuge for the Marsican brown bear. In the valley, the most varied blooms, nourishment for the bees that produce a high-quality honey, are interspersed with the ordered rows of crops of the typical Leonessa potato. 

Lying on the slopes of Mount Tilia, Leonessa was founded in 1278 following the union of various pre-existing castles in the area. Here we can encounter some evidence of its mediaeval history, such as the two ancient access doors, the Porta Aquilana dating back to the 13th century, and Porta Spoletina from the 14th century. The gates, together with the Angevin Tower and some ruins of the city walls are all that remain of the town's original defence system. Of ancient origins and renovated in the 12th century, the Fonte della Ripa was Leonessa's only water resource. Its waters come from the source of the Rocca.

It is the most mountainous stage of the entire route, ranging in altitude from 900 to 1500 m. The route lies almost entirely within a very extensive beech forest of historical importance as it crossed the border between the Church State and the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies.

Poggio Bustone, clinging to a hill in the greenest part of Lazio, dominates the Rieti plain from the top of its position. It is known for being the birthplace of Lucio Battisti, for the production of the excellent local porchetta, but above all, for the Sanctuary of Saint Francis. The monastery, founded in 1208 by the saint himself, still retains its mediaeval appearance. Next to the cloister is the entrance to the pilgrimage hall, which leads to the place where St. Francis gathered for prayer, and from the square in front of the Sanctuary, a path climbs up the mountain and leads to the Grotto of Revelations, where St. Francis received the vision of an angel.

In these two stages, the Way of St. Benedict intersects the Franciscan Way.

Descending towards Rieti, the mountain landscape of Terminillo descends towards the water-rich plain. Where you can admire sunflower fields and extensive cultivation of the "original Rieti" wheat that enriches the local cuisine with all kinds of pasta and desserts. 

Surrounded in part by the mighty mediaeval walls, Rieti welcomes and protects us. Recognised as the centre of Italy, it is home to numerous monuments and places of interest. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta was built between the twelfth and thirteenth centuries and fascinates us with the simplicity of the exterior made in the Romanesque style but also with the baroque decorations of the interior. In the various chapels we find numerous sculptural works made by important artists, including Gian Lorenzo Bernini, and a rich collection of wonderful paintings.

No less important are the minor Basilica of St. Augustine, the Church of St. Dominic, the Church of St. Francis, as well as imposing civil works such as the Teatro Flavio Vespasiano theatre, the Episcopal Palace, the Palazzo Comunale and numerous other beautiful buildings.

If beauty is to be enjoyed, it should be enjoyed to the fullest: ancient buildings provide the backdrop for a fascinating visit to the city's underground. 

After leaving the Reatina plain, we walk along the valley of the Turano river until we reach Rocca Sinibalda.

Rocca Sinibalda stands out from afar with its castle, dating back to 1085. Rebuilt as a fortress by the architect Baldassarre Peruzzi, it was decorated with frescoes that softened the Spartan style; classified in 1928 as a national monument, in the 1950s, it became the property of the American writer Caresse Crosby, who used it as a meeting place for artists. The entire manor was restored and reopened in April 2014. 

Continuing up the valley of the Turano river, you reach the lake of the same name and from here, reach Castel di Tora.

The village of Castel di Tora lies on the shores of the artificial lake of Turano, surrounded by a landscape of rare beauty. The lake is the heart of local life: a main attraction with numerous cultural, sports and tourist activities.

A visit to Castel di Tora is a journey into the Middle Ages. The remains of the 11th-century Castle, the Church of St. John the Evangelist and the steep streets dotted with arches, passages and stairways and caves. 

This stage, is somewhat challenging but extraordinary from a landscape point of view, crosses an unspoilt landscape where the signs of agriculture hardship lead us towards Orvinio. The scents of broom and thyme accompany us along the mountain ridges and the centuries-old chestnut groves. Crossing the small village of Pozzaglia Sabina, descending a wide and very steep ridge we head towards Orvinio. Along the convenient dirt road we meet the charming Abbey of Santa Maria del Piano, almost completely demolished, with its beautiful bell tower still intact.

A final climb takes us to Orvinio, a picturesque village rich in history, which welcomes us with the fragrance of its freshly baked bread.

In the upper part of the village, the church of Santa Maria dei Raccomandati, built in the second half of the 16th century, houses pieces by the painters Ascanio and Vincenzo Manenti who were born here.

Other pieces by Manenti embellish the church of San Giacomo, designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini in an octagonal shape and dating back to 1612.

From Orvinio, the route crosses a high plateau that then descends, through the Ustica valley, towards the Aniene valley.  Along the way, we meet Percile and Licenza, where the Latin poet Quintus Horatius Flaccus wanted to build his splendid country villa. At this point, the path passes through the Parco dei Monti Lucretili, with its unspoilt environments and rich fauna. In Civitella di Licenza, the Royal Eagle Museum gives us an insight into the habits of the splendid bird of prey that nests in the heights of Mount Pellecchia.

Mandela is a small village that has its origins in the thirteenth century with the union of the two settlements of Cantalupo and Burdella by the Orsini family. The Church of San Vincenzo is also very interesting thanks to the tombs of the Bonaparte and Del Gallo families.

Heading down the provincial road that leads to Via Tiburtina, you arrive at the Convent of San Cosimato in Vicovaro, an important place in the life of St. Benedict.

Descending the stairs in front of the entrance to the church, you can admire the uniqueness and beauty of the rocky complex: at the end of the staircase carved into the rock, you reach the rocky chapel dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel, where the attempt to poison St. Benedict took place; the interior is decorated with frescoes by Rosati from the end of the 16th century. Another grotto complex can be reached from the garden at the back of the monastery: a small grotto, thought to be the cell of St. Benedict, was later transformed into a rock chapel. Although the two rock complexes are no longer connected, they have not lost their unique character, their naturalistic charm or their intense spiritual and mystical atmosphere.

The way leaves the Aniene valley and enters the Giovenzano valley which, with its green meadows squeezed between two mountain ranges, passes through Gerano and, crossing the mountain and passing through Canterano, descends into the upper Aniene valley to reach Subiaco.

Sublacum (under the lake) is the name that reveals the origin of this village, the cradle of Benedictine monasticism, immersed in the Simbruini Mountains National Park. It was Nero, in fact, who decided to have a villa built here, and the town was named after its lake.

A wild and attractive place, a few centuries later it also attracted the young Benedict, who found solace here and decided to establish no less than thirteen monasteries.

Not far away, the Monastery of Santa Scolastica: considered the oldest of the Benedictine monasteries, can be considered a treasure trove of art and knowledge. The buildings that compose it range, in form and decoration, among the most varied styles: from the Romanesque bell tower and Cosmatesque cloister to the 18th-century church. 

Another important record is the establishment of the first Italian printing house, by two German clerics, in 1465, which enriched the already incredibly well-stocked monastic library. 

The Rocca Abbaziale abbey rises above the historic centre of Subiaco. Medieval in origin but largely transformed between the 16th and 17th centuries, it was the birthplace of Lucrezia Borgia. On the slopes of the village, the medieval San Francesco bridge catches our eye, leading to the church of the same name from 1327, with wooden altars and valuable paintings from the 15th and 16th centuries. 

In the 18th century, Subiaco experienced a golden age: Giovannangelo Braschi, commendatory abbot of Subiaco, became pope under the name of Pius VI. He was responsible for the artistic fervour that swept through the town.

Continuing the ascent of the Aniene valley, the way heads further and further into the Simbruini mountain park to reach Trevi nel Lazio. 

The origins of Trevi nel Lazio are due to the ancient people of the Equi, who resisted Roman domination for a long time, also thanks to the powerful Pelasgic walls, which testify to their constructive and military ingenuity.

Visiting this charming town with a typically medieval appearance, you can admire some of the artistic and architectural treasures such as the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta dating back to 1200. 

Also interesting is the Oratory of San Pietro consisting of a single nave, with a barrel vault: the church was built in 1685, on the spot where the town's patron saint was believed to have died. Inside, it houses an eighteenth-century marble sculptural group depicting the death of the saint of Trevi. 

One of the most important historical testimonies of Trevi nel Lazio is the Caetani Castle located in the highest and oldest part of the town.

Continuing along the way, you pass from the Simbruini to the Ernici Mountains, through mountain villages where time seems to have stood still. The first part of the route is a fascinating trail that runs along an ancient communication route and we can admire a beautiful Roman arch in the middle of the forest.  

The small village of Collepardo is one of the most picturesque towns in Ciociaria.

Its territory, rich in artistic and above all natural beauty, attracts tourists in search of unspoilt landscapes. Already inhabited by the Ernici people, this rugged and lonely territory attracted several communities of monks and individual hermits who conducted their spiritual retreats here.

Discover the Church of the Santissimo Salvatore, the Church of the Consolazione, the adjacent Church of San Rocco and the Church of the Santissima Trinità, and, a short distance from the town, you can visit the Bambocci Caves or Queen Margaret caves (named in honour of the sovereign's visit in 1904). The spectacle of the stalactites and stalagmites is truly fascinating.  

As we resume the Way of St. Benedict, we meet the splendid Certosa di Trisulti monastery, and from here, a beautiful mountain road through beautiful woods, meadows and broad views, towards the valley of the Liri river, which will accompany us until the end of the Way. Here we find an authentic jewel, one of the very rare examples in Italy of "Cistercian Gothic": the Abbey of Casamari.

Near the Amaseno River stands the majestic Abbey of Casamari. Founded by Benedictine monks in the 11th century, in the early 13th century it passed to the Cistercian Monastic Order, which renovated and expanded the structure. It is now, together with Fossanova, one of the most remarkable monuments of Cistercian-Gothic architecture that has remained intact.

Among the sculptures in the wooden choir, you can see the figure of a small inlaid swan cutting into its chest with its beak. On the lunette of the Portal of the Lay Brothers is depicted the emblem of the Tree of Life flanked by two Templar crosses. A special feature of Cistercian architecture is the almost total absence of decorative elements, so as not to distract the faithful from prayer. Nevertheless, on one of the capitals of the cloister, there are three faces, representing Frederick II of Swabia, his chancellor Pier delle Vigne and possibly Joachim of Fiore, highlighting the close relationship between the Emperor and the Cistercian monks.

From Casamari, along unpaved roads through the fields, we reach Isola del Liri. The pleasant town is built on an island formed by the powerful river waterfall. Once back on the road, the wonderful Abbey of San Domenico awaits us, a wonderful monastic complex founded in 1011 by Saint Dominic of Sora on the ruins of the birthplace of Marcus Tullius Cicero. The way continues uphill through steep olive groves to Arpino. 

Arpino stands at a height of 450 metres and houses important historic buildings and valuable churches. Of the former, we can mention Palazzo del Cavalier d'Arpino and the Municipal Building. Also of note is Ladislao Castle, built in 1269 by Ladislao D'Angiò Durazzo, which has now assumed the appearance of a palace.

Built on an ancient pagan temple, the church of San Michele Arcangelo dates back to the 18th and 19th century. The Church of the Madonna di Loreto is very interesting, with its characteristic octagonal shape.

Remnants of a distant past, the majestic Cyclopean Walls testify to the pride and ingenuity of the Italic populations that inhabited these places.

A very beautiful stage, from a historical-artistic and naturalistic perspective, the way crosses the gorges of the Melfa river and proceeds through wild, primordial nature.

From its vantage point, Roccasecca dominates the Liri Valley and the Melfa Valley, a strategic point for both trade and military operations.

In addition to the Church of San Tommaso located just below the hill on which the ancient town stands, you will find the Baroque Church of Santa Maria Assunta, which houses several works of great value. We also find the Church and Convent of San Francesco, the Boncompagni Palace and the Church of Santa Margherita, also in Baroque style.

Among the most important monuments, we cannot fail to mention the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie that preserves an ancient fresco from the rupestrian church of Sant'Angelo and the Church of San Pietro in Campea, which stands on the ruins of what was once the villa of Juvenal, a Latin poet born in nearby Aquino.

Just a couple of kilometres from Roccasecca is the small village of Caprile, with the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie and the rock hermitage of Sant’Angelo in Asprano. From the path, on which you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the Liri Valley, we continue through the pretty town of Castrocielo in an even higher position in the valley and walk along the last stretch of the way, which will take us to Montecassino, also a stop on the Vie Francigene del Sud.

The Abbey of Montecassino is one of the most important places of worship in Lazio and Italy and can be defined as the cradle of Western monasticism. Founded in 529 by St. Benedict of Nursia, on a site where an ancient tower and a temple dedicated to Apollo once stood. It stands on a hill 519 metres above sea level.

Throughout its history, it has suffered considerable destruction, looting, earthquakes and subsequent reconstructions. It was St. Benedict himself, who chose this mountain to build a monastery that would house both him and the monks who followed him from Subiaco.

St. Benedict transformed a remote and isolated place into a well-structured Christian monastery, where everyone could find the dignity they deserved through work and prayer. In 577, the Lombards invaded the Benedictine complex, forcing the monks to leave the abbey, taking the remains of St Benedict with them, and seeking refuge first in Rome, then with the community of St. Columba. The abbey was destroyed by the Saracens in 883 and was only rebuilt in 949 following the order of Pope Agapitus II. 

The 1349 earthquake once again destroyed the monastery complex, which was rebuilt in 1366 and assumed its typical Neapolitan Baroque appearance in the 17th century.

The destruction suffered during the Second World War was much more serious. It was on 18 February 1944 that an attack by the allied forces destroyed the entire abbey and, as if by a miracle, only the statue of St. Benedict escaped unscathed, remaining standing until the end.

Throughout the Middle Ages, Montecassino was a fervent hub of culture thanks to the foresight of its abbots and the work of its amanuensis.

After the devastating bombing, the entire structure was rebuilt by means of a long and careful restoration process and is considered a true symbol of Italy's post-war reconstruction.