Baceno

We are at the mouth of the Devero valley, with the village of Baceno, famous for the majestic parish church of San Gaudenzio, a compendium of art history enclosed within the plain lines of a stone hut. Inside, the dominant feature is the large fresco of St Christopher, patron saint of travellers. Founded in the 10th century, it was gradually extended up to the 16th century and now features five aisles, all decorated with splendid late-medieval, Renaissance and Baroque paintings and colourful stained glass windows. The centrepiece is the chapel of the Virgin Mary, which contains an awe-inspiring series of Renaissance frescoes.

From Baceno, the road meanders up to the Devero Alp, in the Veglia and Devero Natural Park, a vast plateau crowned by mountain peaks. Vehicles are not permitted.