Castelli Romani: porchetta and other delicacies

Following a clockwise route around the area of the Albano and Nemi lakes, the route starts from Albano Laziale, the main local centre. This city has a baroque and neoclassical appearance, with modern influences due to repairs of the serious damage caused by the bombing in 1944. The Cisternone, a majestic cistern carved into the rock, with five naves covered by a vault, is worth a visit. It was nothing more than a colossal reservoir of water built to supply the Roman legionaries. But the imperial testimonies also associate it with the Cellomaio baths desired by Caracalla or the Sepulchre of the Orazi and Curiazi. The Municipal Museum exhibits axes, daggers, millstones and other objects recovered from a recently rediscovered sunken village. Although close to the fraschettas of Ariccia and far from the sea, the city, with La Galleria di Sopra, offers a cuisine broader than its geographical borders, but which uses some of the products of the local area. The originality of the dishes stands out, starting from the thinking behind them.

In nearby Ariccia, the winner of Emerging Chef 2022, Sara Scarsella, has opened Sintesi, where they serve sea, lake and forest fare all in a single concept of cuisine, which rejects the superfluous and goes beyond the strong territorial dictates. With her partner Matteo Compagnucci, the young chef is bringing new life to the area's gastronomic philosophy, with Northern European-inspired ideas combined with local flavours. Ariccia, however, remains a destination deeply linked to tradition, as demonstrated by Osteria n°1, where excellent pappardelle with wild boar are made. Norcineria Indiati displays a wide variety of typical products, firstly Ariccia porchetta, based on cooked pork (IGP since 2011) and celebrated in a popular festival on the first Sunday of September.

Not far from Ariccia is the summer residence of the Popes, Castel Gandolfo. For religious architecture, the Collegiata Pontificia di San Tommaso da Villanova and the Madonna del Lago church, commissioned by Paul VI, are worth a visit. There are evocative views of Lake Albano, both from the rooms of the Gardenia restaurant and from the Castel Vecchio hotel, an Art Nouveau hotel surrounded by greenery with an extraordinary roof garden and outdoor pool. The B&B Nido del Falco offers scenic and comfortable accommodation in an exclusive residence within the Castelli Romani Regional Park.

At a short distance from the shores of the lake is Grottaferrata, a small and elegant holiday resort, very popular due to its easy connection to Rome. The town's history began in 1004 when St Nilo, coming from Rossano Calabro, fell asleep under an oak tree and heard the voice of God telling him to found an abbey, the Abbey of St Nilo which now attracts the attention of visitors. Hotel Verdeborgo offers stays in a delightful villa surrounded by greenery. For those who prefer the charm of the historic centre, Locanda dello Spuntino is the right choice. Here you can also try excellent recipes from the Lazio hinterland in the dining areas of the Taverna dello Spuntino, with an ancient underground cellar. Similarly traditional is Taverna Mari, made unique by the dedication of the Mari family, which offers a memorable typical menu including noodles with white wild boar and pecorino sauce, saltimbocca and artichokes. The gourmet and innovative gastronomy of L’Oste della Bon'Ora stands out in contrast to the popular cuisine, with an elegant atmosphere, ideal for spending pleasant moments or celebrating special occasions. A recommended stop for purchases from Agricoltura Capodarco, a cooperative that combines solidarity with tradition, and social inclusion with homemade products, such as jams and soups. For a trip to Campania in the green of the Castelli Romani, you must go to the Mini Caseificio Costanzo to experience first-hand the owner family's mission: to promote dairy products from Campania in the Squarciarelli area.

Heading towards Rome, you come to Frascati, known for its ancient Roman aristocractic dwellings on the Via Tuscolana, such as Villa Aldobrandini, as well as for some city events not to be missed, such as the Frascati carnival, one of the most eagerly anticipated occasions in the entire region. Cacciani has a century of history and seasonal and dynamic dishes. Typical authentic cuisine is also served byIl Torchio , not far away. In the alleyways of the historic centre, the artisanal ice cream of Greed Avidi di Gelato is made from 80% organic agricultural products; another Frascati establishment is Ceralli Bakery, the town's only wood-fired oven for the past four generations. The Flora hotel is a good choice for an overnight stay, in a beautiful restored 19th-century mansion.

Near the waters of the northern shore of Lake Albano lies Rocca di Papa, so called because during the pontificate of Eugene III the town was assigned to the church. Military buildings include the Pontifical Fortress - an emblem of Vatican power - standing in an elevated position above the town, which is worth a visit. The medieval village with its houses clinging to the rocks is situated on the slopes of Monte Cavo and enjoys some of the most beautiful views in the area. For an excellent display of culinary delicacies La Familiare sells cold cuts, cheeses and the best over-the-counter products. Heading southwards, we recommend a trip to Lariano for its natural beauty and to try the pizza and snacks from Paneria Casa Madre, with ancient grains and refined flours for a highly hydrated dough. As we descend towards the seaVelletri, a majestic city of pre-Christian origin, comes into sight. Its troubled history is told by its fortified walls, razed to the ground by the Romans and rebuilt in the Middle Ages. To dive into local specialities, go to Enogastronomia Marinelli, where you can buy pork, artisan cured meats, wines and pasta.

The itinerary ends in Nemi, a village over which the Orange Flag of the Italian Touring Club flies. Situated on a small, picturesque volcanic lake just a few minutes from Albano Laziale, Nemi, the starting point of the route, is known to most for its wild strawberries, which are both sweet and tart. These small fruits, according to legend, were born from the tears shed by Venus over the death of Adonis. Since 1922, they have been celebrated every year on the first Sunday of June with a festival. The Bar delle Fragole has made them the key ingredient of aperitifs, cocktails, yoghurts and tarts: the tables are set around the circular lake view and the view is surreal.