Carnival is served: a tour exploring the sweet and savoury specialities of Italy

The itinerary of flavour discovering the typical recipes of Carnival begins in Lavello, a small village with a charm of yesteryear, nestled in the heart of the Vulture area of Basilicata. This lively town of Neolithic origins is known for having one of the most interesting carnivals in all of Italy. During this time of year, the alleyways and squares of Lavello come alive with dances and colours to mark the arrival of Domino, an intriguing mask wearing a traditional satin tunic, generally red, enriched by a cloak and hood to hide the face. Each Domino carries a bag matching the outfit, containing sweets and traditional confections to be given to anyone who accepts an invitation to dance. This is how the so-called festini get underway. These are yearly traditional dances that attract people of all ages from across Lavello and the neighbouring towns of Basilicata. Symbolising joy, mystery and freedom, the Lavello Carnival is a long-awaited traditional event that gives participants the opportunity to dance together without knowing one another’s identity, thereby strengthening a sense of community. This little-known corner of Basilicata preserves a typical Carnival recipe that expresses the precious fusion between the local tradition and the influence of Albania in the northern area of Vulture, including Maschito, since the 15th century. In this village, the Albanian identity is still very much alive and felt, both in the language and in the culinary traditions. A case in point is Lakrùar, a sweet and sour flan made from two thin discs of shortcrust pastry hiding a rich and aromatic filling of lamb, chicken and sausages, wrapped in a mixture of beaten eggs, Primosale cheese, grated cheese, parsley and cinnamon. A real treasure chest of flavours, the sweetness of the shortcrust pastry balances with the spicy, savoury filling, resulting in a feast for the taste buds, especially when paired with a glass of Aglianico del Vulture. This is the local king of wines. Intense, full-bodied and full of character, it opens with a bouquet of red fruits and jam, then leaving room for notes of black pepper, cloves and tobacco, thereby blending perfectly with the spiced Lakrùar. An unusual and fascinating combination, just like its region, to be discovered at the table at lunches and dinners organised by the winemakers of the Wine Tourism Movement.  What better way, then, to finish off the evening than with a fancy dress ball at a wine cellar, creating the costumes yourselves with the recycled materials provided?

Amongst the most beloved traditional desserts of Campania, struffoli are a real must for any party that never go out of style. Many believe that their name is a throwback to Magna Graecia, with the word struffoli coming from the Greek strongulos, meaning round. Others, instead, believe it refers to the act of “rubbing” the dough (“strofinare” in Italian) during the preparation phase, before forming the balls that will then compose a pyramid of colour and sweetness. Whatever the origin of their name, one thing is certain: struffoli boast an ancient history and are still prepared today following the traditional recipe, based on just a few, simple ingredients. Flour, eggs, sugar and flavourings give life to these small, golden, crunchy balls of fried dough, immersed in honey and sprinkled with candied fruit and colourful sprinkles. You can learn how to prepare this sweet symbol of Campania at one of the cooking courses organised by the members of the Wine Tourism Movement, being guided by the producers through its history and the best pairings with local wines. An experience in the cellar, suitable for all families, which ends by tasting struffoli paired with a glass of Fiano Passito, a sweet wine stemming from one of the great native vines of Campania. The grapes are left to dry on the plant or in boxes, developing a high concentration of sugars and aromas that range from honey to notes of candied citrus, vanilla, toasted flavours, and a slight balsamic touch. This golden nectar with amber reflections is enveloping and velvety smooth, releasing a trail of aromas that amplifies the aromatic flavour of the struffoli: a triumph of sweetness that reveals Campania’s love for good food and wine. Fiano Passito is also renowned for its slightly mineral character that recalls its territory, Irpinia, one of the spearheads of the region’s oenology, boasting as many as 3 DOCGs: Taurasi, Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo. It also features the Carnival of Montemarano, a wonderful medieval village surrounded by breathtaking views of the hills of Irpinia. This picture-postcard location sets the stage for one of the most evocative carnivals in southern Italy: the Carnival of Montemarano. Seven days of masked processions and tarantella, a traditional dance originating in ancient agricultural rituals and danced to the rhythm of tambourines and accordions. This is not just a dance but a symbol of belonging, engaging inhabitants and visitors alike in a whirlwind of collective joy.

Any tour of Italy’s Carnivals must take in the shores of the Marche region, where the scent of castagnole fills every home. In Fano, castagnole are prepared with flour, sugar, eggs and butter, flavoured with lemon peel and a drop of aniseed-flavoured Mistrà, and traditionally baked. With a soft interior and slightly crunchy exterior, the castagnole of Fano are lighter than the classic fried version, but equally packed with flavour.  Whether sprinkled with icing sugar or dipped in syrup and sprinkled with aniseed seeds, these golden balls are sometimes filled with crème pâtissière for an even tastier experience. Perfect during the festivities, castagnole are the ideal dessert to prepare and taste in the cellars of the Wine Tourism Movement, where you can also discover the region’s native wines, such as  Doc Pergola, Colli Pesaresi and Bianchello del Matauro, the latter taking its name from the river of the same name. In its raisin version, this fresh, savoury wine surprises the drinker with notes of honey and jam that pair perfectly with the sweetness and fragrance of the castagnole. After lunch, an aperitif or a guided tasting at the MTV cellars, we suggest exploring one of the oldest and most characteristic carnivals in the entire Peninsula. The earliest records of the Carnival of Fano date back to 1347, although its origins seem to be date even further back, to the ancient Roman festival of Saturnalia. But it is thanks to the Malatesta, one of the most influential families of the Renaissance, that this festival began to attract nobles and writers from all over Europe, acquiring the fame that still makes it one of the most celebrated carnivals in Italy today. The beating heart of this event is given by its majestic floats, real works of art in wood and papier-mâché made by skilled artists and craftsmen and parading through the city streets led by the Vulón. Every year, this traditional mask takes the caricatural features of the most conspicuous figure of that moment, and is then symbolically sacrificed on the Mardi Gras bonfire held in Piazza XX Settembre. However, the highlight of the event is the Getto dei Dolciumi, a tradition whereby sweets are thrown off the floats, attracting hundreds of people ready to grab this sweet loot with umbrellas, bags and other creative instruments. Between its colourful masks, music and cascade of sweets, the Fano Carnival is a magical experience for the eyes and for the palate; one not to be missed by anyone wishing to immerse themselves in the ancient traditions and typical flavours of the Marche region.