Spanish Neighbourhood

The belly of Naples. A chessboard of alleyways created in the 16th century on the slopes of the hill of San Martino to house the Spanish troops. The buildings built for the military at the behest of Viceroy Pedro de Toledo overlook the left side of Via Toledo. The district is also known as Montecalvario, from the monumental complex formed by theChurch of Santa Maria Mercede in Montecalvario, founded in 1560. The Neighbourhoods are lively, noisy and in recent years have been swarmed by tourists attracted by their authenticity. There are the basses (tiny homes with direct views of the road), the trattorias, the fish and mozzarella counters, the wicker baskets and bowls tied to ropes that are lowered up and down from high windows and the grocery stores and garzoni that deliver the groceries, clothes hung out between buildings, scooters that race past, the colorful and ancient Pignasecca Market, artisan leather shops, bags, belts, shoes and umbrellas ‘made to measure'.