Benevento

Benevento is a beautiful but complex city, founded thousands of years ago in the hinterland of what is now the region of Campania, more than 60 km from Naples. Nowadays, all things considered, from most parts of Italy it is easier to get to the reserve by high-speed train than by plane or motorway.

If you're looking for answers about the complex configuration of the city, with all its narrow alleys, irregularly-shaped squares, Roman stones and Baroque palaces built over the centuries - then the best place to start is the Sannio Museum, which traces an outline of the region's history. But if that sounds a bit full-on, why not enjoy a stroll around the streets first, before entering the museum.

One of the most popular places for a peaceful stroll is Corso Garibaldi, a large and much-loved main street which certainly has its fair share of shops, the church of St Sophia in the centre, the Rocca dei Rectori at the end of the street and the Arch of Trajan at the end of a short side street. But perhaps the town's pride and joy is Caffè Strega. Inside, the walls are adorned with posters of ladies in flowing garments (perhaps witches?), there are tables for chatting or even studying (Benevento is also an important university town), as well as rows of the town's famous liqueur.

There is more, of course: the Duomo itself, or the modern art installation by Mimmo Paladino, near the Sannio Museum. Another point to note is that according to legend, Benevento was founded by a Greek, Diomedes, a wandering veteran of the Trojan War. But let's not go over the top. Sleeping dogs (and Greek heroes) are best left to lie!